A Captain’s Camino

While “enchanting,” the Gregorian chants that were piped into the monastery dorms were not welcome at 6:00 am! But it had already been a restless night for most because of the constant noises, snoring, flushing of toilets (jet engine loud), lights on/off, etc.

But that is the Camino! You wake, you brush your teeth (little else for grooming), you dress in well-worn clothes for the day, have a light pilgrim breakfast (this morning in a hotel restaurant!), pull on your pack, and then walk.

What will be each day, will be. Buen Camino!

I was also pleased to get a blessing for my special rosary from one of the priests at the Pilgrim Mass. This was at the Real Colegiata de Santa Maria de Roncesvalles.

Six hours today, only about 17 kilometers, but much easier than the path to Orisson. Moderate slopes and about half remote mountain road and half dirt, gravel, forest mulch, rocky pathways, or crossings of active pastures (horses and sheep).

So, from the beginning… heading out this morning was dark and dreary. No rain, but wet and cold – completely the opposite of yesterday. That turned out to be fine since we weren’t all rolling in sweat along the way. About 9:30 am it began to rain, and although most of us are prepared, the cold mountain air (35-40 deg), strong wind, and rain combined was not too much fun, but manageable.

There were hugely steep slopes along one side of the trail or other, I mean 100 to 140 degree slopes that you could only roll down if you slipped off the edge, and no stopping for 1,000 feet or more! Many of the mountain slopes were covered in heather and a few other flowering plants. Tough and pretty!

The scenery was incredible, even in the rain. The sun was often breaking through in the valleys and so awe inspiring.

Horse herds and groups of sheep were almost always within eye site (or right along the paths). The horse are apparently raised for food in France, and sheep for food and their wool.

We saw a sheep herder bring a large “flock” down a mountain side with assistance from a sheep dog. He only had one recalcitrant sheep who did not like following directions, but he was lame. The herder finally got that straggler on track with the others. The best part is that we saw the herder in the field at first, then the herd magically appeared higher on the mountain as they emerged from the clouds/fog. Quite a sight!

Near the top of the mountains, a man comes up every day from 6 am to 2 pm in his van, opens a side door, and opens for business. He sells hot chocolate, coffee, espresso, fruit, boiled eggs, sandwiches, snacks, etc. We are all convinced he is a millionaire because we know he makes oodles in the 8 months of the year that you can actually hike through the Pyrenees. Not overpriced at all, just the only show for miles and miles. His hot chocolate this morning was life renewing!

I met two South African ladies at the hostel in Barcelona. Fiona lives in Capetown with her family, Vanessa in San Diego now with hers. The hostel manager introduced us since he thought we were going to the same place. Turns out we were on the same train and bus to St. Jean together. We had dinner in St. Jean with other pilgrims before the walk, and the three of us walked together today. They’re lifelong friends on a 3-week Camino adventure, some walking, some stretches by bus to get done in their timeframe. Amazing and interesting Camino trail companions.

Crossing the border from France to Spain was underwhelming. If I hadn’t seen pix online I wouldn’t have even known we were at the border.

Sometimes on the Camino you see 8-10 pilgrims behind it ahead, sometimes no one is in sight. What a peaceful time of contemplation (and wondering how much farther you have that day). Never anything the same and vistas beyond compare.

After we crossed the peak (in rain and very strong wind) we started down toward Roncesvalles, our first stop in Spain. It’s only about an hour hike from the summit down, and fortunately, the weather improved all the way, ending in beautiful skies and sunshine. The first view of the monastery where I’ll stay in Roncesvalles, Spain, from up on the mountains was truly epic. The weather had broken in the valley and the monastery was nestled in the trees and bathed in sunshine. A welcome site!

We’ll have our usual pilgrim dinner at 7 pm, usually near, potatoes, vegetable or soup, dessert, and most importantly, WINE! Tonight’s room, dinner, and breakfast are only 80 Euro, about $20! And the shower was hot! Yesterday’s was not and the coin they gave us was only for 5 minutes max. Just like vein’ back in the Navy. Then I’ll go to the Catholic Pilgrim’s Mass at 8 pm (with my beautiful Navy rosary made by Karly especially for my Camino).

Speaking of Navy, lots of retired military on the Camino. More on that some other time.

7:00 am, dark, cold, and wet. We all hope the rain holds off as we head out to finish off the Pyrenees and head downhill.

The same route that Napoleon used with his armies. Would have been nice to have a mule for my pack!

The sound of the Camino – crunch, crunch, crunch. Oh, sorry, the first morning is actually – crunch…crunch……crunch……….crunch. With 20 to 40 degree inclines, walking up the Pyrenees is a slow slog. Not exactly brutal (that means you want to quit), just challenging (with lots of 30 second rest breaks)!

When you are alone on the road/trail, there is almost no sound except for the cows, sheep, and horses eating in the fields. On a day like today with such glorious weather it is hard to imagine any place more beautiful.

I will be here in Orisson overnight and on to Roncesvalles early in the morning.

Crushing pop cans is soda pressing.

Breathtaking! 7:45 am.

Well, after a trip by car, bus, two planes, a train, and another bus, I’m in France! What a pretty town, time to relocate! My Camino walk begins tomorrow morning climbing the Pyrenees.

Beautiful San Diego weather evening and dinner with 6 other pilgrims.

Our mountains aren’t just funny, they’re hill areas.

Beautiful weather, and a great city for walking and sightseeing. Nice bunk in a hostel for the first night.

Visited the Basilica de la Sagrada Familia, an incredible cathedral that has been under construction since 1882.

Ended up with tapas and cerveza at a local bar.

Off to France tomorrow morning.

Wishing you a whatever doesn’t offend you.

Pack is loaded and Brenda is taking me to catch the bus at 5:00 pm.

In search of fresh vegetable puns; lettuce know.

A bus from Charlottesville to Washington Dulles on Sep 1st. Flying from Washington to Barcelona, via Lisbon. Arrive in Barcelona on the 2nd. On the 3rd, taking a train to Pamplona and then a bus to St. Jean Pied de Port in France. I begin my 500 mile pilgrimage on the morning of Wednesday, September 4th. Buen Camino! And thanks for joining me!

Steve